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Editor’s note: The Four Seasons provided the author with a complimentary three-night stay to get an updated look at the hotel and its amenities. The opinions expressed below are entirely those of the author and weren’t subject to review by the hotel or any external entity.
Have you ever visited a place years ago and spent the next decade dreaming about going back?
That’s exactly how I felt when I left the Four Seasons Costa Rica in June 2013. I was 20 years old, fresh off a family trip, and convinced this was the nicest resort I’d ever stayed at.
I remember frequently scrolling back through those pictures, hoping I’d get to return soon. I didn’t expect it to turn into 12 years, especially once I started working in the travel industry.
But better late than never, as they say.
This time, my wife and I were searching for the perfect couples’ escape: an easy nonstop from New York, warm weather, and enough activities to make three days feel full (without feeling busy).
Not an easy checklist, but the Four Seasons Peninsula Papagayo delivered, and then some.
Four Seasons Costa Rica: A “Perfect Day for Two”
One thing I loved about this property back in 2013 was how much you could fit into a single day. While I have no trouble sitting on a beach chair all afternoon, especially in the winter, this trip had a specific mission: to celebrate my wife’s birthday and spend quality time together.
It was our first couple’s getaway without our daughter since she was born over a year ago.
So we went all in.
The resort now curates a so-called “perfect day for two,” which is basically a sampler of Costa Rica’s greatest hits without the planning. You tell the concierge your vibe, and they handle the rest.
“We don’t golf, love adventure, and need some R&R” was our brief request to the concierge.
Here’s what we got.
We kicked things off with a three-hour zip-lining and ropes course adventure — a Costa Rican classic (the country invented ziplining in 1979).
It had all the adrenaline and none of the logistical hassle since this activity is located in the forest on Peninsula Papagayo, just 20 minutes from the resort.
After lunch and a quick beach recharge, we shifted gears entirely with sound healing.
The last time we did something like this was in Bali after my wife took the bar exam. Back then, she fell asleep during the session.
This time? After a year of being in parent mode, we both did. Falling asleep to crashing waves, chirping birds, and distant monkey hollers isn’t a bad way to reset.
We wrapped the day with a private beachfront dinner.
We pre-selected our menu the day before, and Alberto, our waiter, presented each course with wine pairings, including one of his favorite whites (Château de Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2024) to go with the cilantro-mojo mahi mahi.
This was the type of day that made me promise it wouldn’t be 12 years until we returned.
Four Seasons Costa Rica: A major glow-up
I’m guilty of romanticizing past trips, whether through nostalgia or just scrolling through my camera roll (my favorite pastime when airplane Wi-Fi is broken).
But this time, reality actually outshined my memory.
In fact, the resort has doubled down on the ultra-lux experience with a wave of modern updates.
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This includes the opening of a new Mediterranean-inspired beach club on the Pacific side of the resort. Here you’ll find a restaurant, chaise loungers, cabana service, and crashing waves. (On Friday nights, the hotel brings in a DJ and serves cocktails on the sand.)
The resort also renovated the adults-only pool area, introducing an infinity-edge pool, additional seating options, and greater privacy from the surrounding area.
Finally, the opening of the wellness shala, an open-air hillside retreat that feels like a sanctuary. Even if you skip the wellness programming, the views alone might help you drop your resting heart rate.
It all feels fresh, intentional, and remarkably serene, reinforcing the hotel’s position as the luxury splurge in Costa Rica.
(I’d be remiss not to mention the recent opening of the nearby Waldorf Astoria and Nekajui, the Ritz Carlton Reserve next door. I’ve been to the latter, haven’t tried the former yet, but from everything I’ve seen and heard, the Four Seasons still holds the crown.)
Four Seasons Costa Rica: the basics are covered, too
As you’d expect from a Four Seasons, the basics were flawlessly executed.
The nearly 200 rooms have been refreshed with new lighting and tech, while the original layouts remain — a good thing, because the screened-in terraces feel like practically mini treehouses.
There are three pools (all heated to 87 degrees): the adults-only infinity pool, the family pool, and the main pool. We rotated between them like it was our job. (It was.)
Add in two Jacuzzis, one tucked into what looks like the rainforest and another overlooking the hills at the spa, and you’ll wonder why you ever willingly enter cold weather. (We did.)
The gym deserves its own award.
It’s two stories, impeccably equipped, and honestly rivals your neighborhood Equinox, scented towels included.
Dining was a highlight as well. The property boasts five restaurants, four of which we tried: Italian one night, Costa Rican the next, and Middle Eastern after that.
As for breakfast, whether you go a la carte or buffet, don’t skip the acai bowl or rancheros eggs.
Four Seasons Costa Rica: Surprisingly easy to reach
For a three-day trip without our daughter, maximizing time on the ground was a must.
That meant finding nonstop flights that left in the morning and departed the destination in the afternoon or evening. We also wanted somewhere under an hour’s drive from the airport.
Initially, that pointed us to the Caribbean or Mexico until I remembered Liberia.
When I flew out of Liberia a decade ago, I recall chaos: long lines, minimal air conditioning, and limited airline service.
Today, it’s a totally different story.
Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (LIR) has been modernized with more seating, air conditioning, and a few solid food options. There are nonstop flights from tons of U.S. cities on Alaska, American, Delta, JetBlue, Southwest, Sun Country, and United.
Sure, the Priority Pass-accessible airport lounge there recently closed, but honestly, who needs a lounge when it now takes just 10 minutes to go from the departure curb to the gate?
If we’d known, we would’ve lingered at the resort even longer on our last day.
Will it take us another 12 years to return?
Absolutely not.
This trip reminded me exactly why I fell in love with Costa Rica and with this resort all those years ago.
Next time, we’re bringing our daughter. Something tells me the kids’ club (and the monkeys) will be her version of paradise.
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